Archivo de la categoría: Proyectos

The beginning of the end

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Front of the polonaise

Very little work left!

I’ve had a lot of problems with the front closure. I can’t use pins, so I tried hooks and  eyes; it didn’t work. Finally, after much thinking I did it the period way, but instead of ribbon, I used embroidery thread to tie it closed. It was easy and it looks a lot better 🙂 Lining wasn’t so problematic as when I try to bagline something, 18th century lining techniques were more «intuitive», and with them I didn’t have any problem figuring out how to do the sleeves, that are the next I’ll be working on.

Finally, I begin the polonaise

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Museo del Traje Polonaise: Nº INV. MT000905

The stays are finished (tomorrow I’ll post photos of the lining on my flickr account), and I’ve begun working in the last piece: the polonaise. The photo on the left is my model for this, and it’s been difficult finding a pattern that resembles it, so I’ve done it myself. I first draped the lining, but I made a mistake and cut it without seam allowance, so I only could use it to make a pattern. Then I made a pattern in paper for the rest of the polonaise and tried it on the doll. It was perfect except for the lengt and now I only have the pattern for the sleeves left to do, so… back to work!

Only the lining left!

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Pair of bodies

This is how the pair of bodies are going to look like!

The binding was more difficult than I thought, so I just finished it this morning. Thankfully, I still have the rest of December and all January to finish this project, so I spect to have it in time for the contest.

Pair of bodies

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Pair of bodies, almost finished

Pair of bodies, almost finished

I have almost finished the definitive pair of bodies. I only have left binding, welting and sewing the lining.

I’ve made a lot of mistakes  with it, I should have changed the pattern so the four back pieces where only two, because I almost hadn’t had space for the lacing holes. Regardless of all, it looks really good! I hope to have it finished by the end of the month (not a lot of time to work on it), so I can begin with the bodice.

No sólo de historia vive la costurera

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Mekanen

 

Además de la moda histórica, siempre me han fascinado las historias de fantasía, hasta tal punto que en el instituto escribía novelas y las ilustraba. Tengo esa parte creativa bastante abandonada, pero cuando no me apetece otra cosa me dedico a diseñar los trajes de aquellos personajes que aún no tienen uno. En este caso, más que nueva creación es un rediseño de uno de los más antiguos, y me ha gustado tanto que lo voy a añadir a mis proyectos de costura.

Está inspirado en el orientalismo del siglo XIX, con sus odaliscas y harenes idílicos, además de en trajes tradicionales de la zona de oriente medio. Consta de una camisa interior blanca con cuello, unos pantalones bombachos hasta los tobillos con un fajín en morado para sujetarlo y ajustarlo al cuerpo, un chaleco azul bordado con motivos inspirados en las decoraciones de la Alhambra y el palacio de Topkapi , y un velo de gasa blanco.  La construcción va a ser rectangular, sin patronaje moderno, para que sea más sencillo de coser y dé la sensación de tradicional. El bordado también será sencillo, con puntos lineales y sin rellenos, pero en sedas de colores para dar más vida.

¡Ah! Y al contrario que los trajes en los que estoy trabajando ahora, va a estar cosido a máquina 🙂

Petticoat finished

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Petticoat

Petticoat

 

I just finished the petticoat. It gave me some problems, because I used the pattern for the underpetticoat, but I forgot that it was shorter. Thankfully, it has a flounce and it gives it the length I need.Now I’ll finish the stays before I continue with the bodice, so I can get a perfect fit.

I only have one concern: ¿would the false rump be able to support all the weight of the three layers?

DPP Update!

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Underpetticoat

Underpetticoat

I finished the underpetticoat. I can’t believe it looks so good! I had to use powder blue ribbon for the front tie because I ran out of white, and the result is very nice.

In the detail photo you can see how I attached the ribbon to the underpetticoat. The fabric I used unravels like mad, but I didn’t want the extra bulk I’d have with a hem, so I cut it and whip stitched ribbon and fabric together. The detail pic doesn’t look very neat, but in  reality it looks better.

Detail

«Cul de France»

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False rump

False rump

I had finished the two front panels of the definitive stays when I began to feel bored and decided to use the mock-up to continue working in the rest of the garment. I’ve already finished the false rump or «cul de France» (that name makes me giggle like a kid) and have well advanced the underpetticoat.
I’m using satin ribbon for the ties in the false rump and underpetticoat to reduce bulk.

I’ve also begun to give some thought to the decorations. I’m thinking about making some braided cords with silver embroidery thread and lilac beads I have in my stash for the shoulders.

Traje de hada

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Traje de hada

Trajecito cosido en ocho horas no consecutivas. Aproveché un montón de cosillas que tenía por casa: tul elástico marrón, cinta de raso verde, hilo de ganchillo verde, cuentas de colores compradas en una tienda china, alambre de cobre que tengo desde hace casi veinte años y papel de colores.

Ha sido muy divertido de hacer, porque el único patrón que he usado es el que hice para los pétalos que forman la falda, el restro lo he cortado a ojo.

Detalles

En mi Flickr podéis ver fotos un poco más artísticas